How to Refinish Your Garage Floors with Rust-Oleum Polycuramine Garage Floor Coating Kit
Hello fellow doers and DIY enthusiasts! As many of you know, I recently shared the progress on a project that is helping me transform my garage from a dark, uninviting space into a bright and functional area. Refinishing my 1980s dark red concrete floors using the Rust-Oleum Polycuramine Garage Floor Coating Kit was the first step. Follow along here as I guide you through each step of the process so you can achieve the same professional-looking finish in your garage without paying an arm and a leg to hire it out.
Materials You'll Need:
Rust-Oleum Polycuramine Garage Floor Coating Kit (which includes Pre-Tinted Polycuramine Burst Pouch, Foam Rollers, Concrete Etch and Decorative Chips)
Pressure washer or garden hose and bucket
Heavy-duty/stiff bristle scrub brush
Wire brush (for heavy stains or peeling paint)
Painter’s tape
Plastic sheeting (to protect your drywall or low outlets from splashes during the cleaning process)
Protective gloves and eyewear
Paint roller frame (roller is included in the kit) and extension pole
3" paintbrush
Floor scraper or putty knife (for any needed clearing and repairs)
Heavy-duty degreaser (I used Rust-Oleum Cleaner & Degreaser)
Rust-Oleum Concrete Patch & Repair (for filling cracks and holes)
Decorative Chips (if you want more coverage or perhaps a different color than what comes with the kit)
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Step 1: Preparation
1.1 Clear the Garage
Start by removing all items from your garage. This includes cars, tools, storage boxes, and anything else that might be on the floor. You want a completely empty space to work with (it's no fun, but it's definitely a necessary evil).
1.2 Scrape the Gunk
Use a scraper or wire bristle brush to get up any raised areas that may have accumulated over the years from paint spills or anything of the sort.
1.3 Clean the Floor
Next, you'll want to clean the floor to remove any dirt, oil, and grease. Use a garden hose (or pressure washer if you're feeling adventurous) to rinse the floor. You can also be like me and just use 5-gallon buckets and a garden pitcher to wet the floors. Apply Rust-Oleum Cleaner and Degreaser and scrub with a heavy-duty brush to ensure that your coating can do its job without any blemishes or surprises that may arise after drying. Grease and oils can actually cause the coating to separate and leave a bare spot when curing if not cleaned properly. Use the cleaner at full strength for tough stains or dilute 1:1 with water. Apply to stains, let soak for 20 minutes, mist with a hose to keep damp, scrub with a stiff bristle broom, and rinse away the cleaner. Use a squeegee or wet/dry vacuum to remove water.
Step 2: Etching the Concrete
(ONLY FOR BARE CONCRETE FLOORS)
NOTE: If you're uncertain whether your concrete was previously coated, Rust-Oleum says to splash water on any areas you may have concerns about. If the water beads up, the floor may have been previously coated (which means you can skip to step 3).
2.1 Mix the Etch Solution
If you have bare concrete floors, you'll want to purchase the Clean & Etch for Concrete mix and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. This step is crucial for unsealed floors as it ensures the coating adheres properly to the concrete.
2.2 Apply the Etch
Pour the etch solution onto the floor in sections and scrub it in with a stiff-bristled brush. You should see the concrete start to fizz as the etch reacts. This means it's working! Rinse the floor thoroughly to remove all traces of the etch solution. Allow the floor to dry completely, ideally overnight.
Step 3: Repairs and Patching
3.1 Inspect the Floor
Check for any cracks or holes in the concrete. Use a floor scraper or putty knife to remove any loose debris.
3.2 Apply Concrete Patch
Fill any cracks or holes with a concrete patch, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Smooth it out with a putty knife and allow it to cure according to the recommended time.
Step 4: Applying the Concrete Redcoat Primer
4.1 Prepare the Area
Use painter's tape and plastic sheeting to mask off areas you don’t want to coat, such as the walls and any fixtures.
4.3 Apply the Concrete Recoat Primer
Use a paintbrush to cut in around the edges. Starting from the back of the garage and working towards the exit, roll the primer ensuring that you get an even coat on the entire floor.
The cure time for this primer (which requires no sanding or grinding prior to use) is 12 hours.
Step 5: Applying the Base Coat
5.1 Mix the Coating
The Rust-Oleum Polycuramine kit usually comes with a burst pouch that allows you to mix the product easily. Follow the instructions on the pouch.
5.2 Apply the Coating
Starting from the back of the garage and working towards the exit, apply the base coat in a four-foot by four-foot (4x4) section. Pour a ribbon of the Polycuramine mixture closest to the walls. Use a paintbrush to cut in around the edges. Spread the rest of the mixture evenly using the roller and avoid leaving any puddles.
Step 6: Decorative Chips
(Optional)
6.1 Sprinkle the Chips
While the base coat is still wet, sprinkle the decorative chips by tossing them into the air and letting them fall onto the floor. This ensures an even distribution. Work in small sections to ensure the base coat doesn’t dry before you apply the chips.
Note: While this is an optional step, the chips can add a nice pop of color and make your floors look even better. You can also order a variety of different color chips (so fun!). More importantly, the chips can hide any little dents and dings while also giving your shoes much more traction when the floor is wet.
Step 7: Applying the Top Coat (Optional)
7.1 Mix the Top Coat
Once the base coat is dry (typically 24 hours), mix the top coat as directed in the instructions.
7.2 Apply the Top Coat
Apply the top coat in the same manner as the base coat, ensuring even coverage. The top coat provides a durable, glossy finish that seals and protects your floor.
Note: In full transparency, I chose not to apply this top coat. In doing my own research, I found that many others who have refinished their garage floors said that this top coat made the floors really slippery and even ruined the beautiful finish of the base coat and chips. You can also add an Anti-Skid Additive if you're worried about slips and falls, especially when it's wet or rainy outside.
Step 8: Curing Time
8.1 Allow the Floor to Cure
Let the floor cure for at least 8 hours before walking on it, and wait 24 hours before parking a car on it. This ensures the coating fully hardens and bonds to the concrete.
Conclusion
And there you have it! I know it seems like a lot, but I promise you can easily transform your old, dingy garage floor into a clean, polished surface that’s not only beautiful but also durable all on your own. The Rust-Oleum Polycuramine Garage Floor Coating Kit makes it easy to achieve professional results with just a bit of time and effort. Happy DIY-ing, and don’t forget to share your finished projects with me on social media. I absolutely love hearing from you all and following along with your progress. I'm also here to answer any questions you may have as well. In the meantime, here are a few that many of you have already asked:
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
1. How long does it take to complete this project?
Answer: Think of it as a long weekend project! The whole shebang takes about 3-4 days. Day 1: cleaning and etching (with some overnight drying). Day 2: applying the base coat and sprinkling those fun decorative chips. Day 3: top coat day (if you’re using it). Then, just wait a day before you bring your car back in. Easy peasy!
2. Do I really need to use the concrete etch?
Answer: If your floor is bare concrete, then yes, etching is your BFF. It ensures the coating sticks like glue. If your floor is already coated, you can skip this step and move on to the fun part!
3. Can I use a pressure washer to clean the floor?
Answer: Absolutely! A pressure washer is like the superhero of cleaning tools. It blasts away dirt, oil, and grease like a champ (just be sure to protect any outlets or fixtures from spray). But if you don’t have one, no worries—garden hoses, good ol’ buckets of water, and some elbow grease with a brush will do the trick too.
4. Do I need to apply the top coat?
Answer: The top coat is like the cherry on top of your garage floor sundae. It adds a glossy finish and extra protection. But, if you’re worried about it being slippery, you can skip it or throw in some Anti-Skid Additive for grip.
5. How do I know if my floor needs to be patched before coating?
Answer: Give your floor the once-over. If you see cracks, holes, or any weird bumps, grab a concrete patch and smooth them out. It’s like giving your floor a little spa treatment before its big makeover.
6. Can I use this product on a previously painted floor?
Answer: Yep! Just make sure to clean it really well and scrape off any loose or peeling paint. A light sanding can help too if needed (I didn’t sand mine).
7. How should I dispose of leftover materials and used supplies?
Answer: Don’t just toss them in the trash! Remember, chemicals and oil-based product can be highly combustable. Let everything completely dry before you dispose of it. You can also check your local waste disposal guidelines—many places have special instructions for paint and chemicals.
8. Can I park my car in the garage immediately after applying the coating?
Answer: Hold your horses (or your car)! Give it at least 24 hours before you roll your wheels back in. This gives the coating time to cure and harden, making sure it’s tough and durable. I’ve heard stories of the coating coming up after parking on it right around the 24 hour mark - heat can play a big factor here as well. We waited 36 hours just to be safe.
9. What if I have a lot of heavy stains or peeling paint?
Answer: Break out the wire brush or scraper for those tough spots. And for those super stubborn stains, a heavy-duty degreaser like Rust-Oleum Cleaner & Degreaser will be your best buddy. Just pour some directly on the stains and let it sit for around 20-30 minutes - then scrub, scrub, scrub.
10. Are there different color options for the decorative chips?
Answer: Oh, you bet! There are all sorts of colors to choose from. Pick your favorite and go wild. It’s like confetti for your garage floor—fun and fabulous!
11. How many kits should I order to refinish my garage floor?
Answer: Great question! The Rust-Oleum Polycuramine Garage Floor Coating Kit we purchased was for a 2.5 car garage and covers about 450-500 square feet. For my two-car garage, I ordered two kits just to be safe, but one kit ended up being perfect for the job.
GOOD RULE OF THUMB: measure your garage floor area (length x width) to determine the total square footage. If your garage is less than 250 square feet, one of the 1 car garage kits should do the trick. For right at 250 or even slightly larger spaces, consider ordering the larger 2.5 car garage kit (or simply order an extra kit) to ensure you have enough. It's always better to have a little extra and return it later than to run out halfway through the project and have to make an emergency store run.
As for the decorative chips, if you're like me and love a more speckled design, you might want to purchase additional bags of chips. The kit comes with a pre-chosen color based on which base color you chose and only comes with a standard amount, but adding extra can really enhance the look and provide more coverage. Again, better to have too much than too little—nobody wants to stop in the middle of a fun project to go get more supplies!
Stay tuned for more projects, tips, and tricks to keep your DIY journey exciting and rewarding.
